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Interior Walls


Framing the interior walls was easier and more comfortable than the previous work.  For one thing, there was now a roof and windows in place so working on rainy days was not so bad.

I did the interior framing with steel studs.  Work moved much faster than before, and it seemed more rewarding.  I still had no concept of how much work lay ahead.

The dining room coffered ceiling was a bit tricky.  There was some intricate cutting and fitting, and keeping the whole thing perfectly level required extra diligence.  I had a touch of tendonitis after finishing this job.
The electrical branch circuits arrive at strategic places from beneath the slab.  Pulling wiring through steel studs is easier because the holes are already punched.  But a (red) plastic grommet must be snapped into each to prevent scuffing the wire.
With steel framing, its a good idea to attach 2X4 wood bucks on the door openings.  This keeps it simple for hanging doors.  (Note:  This photo was taken with a wide angle lens, hence the barrel distortion.  The walls are not curved.)
I was concerned that the cabinet maker may not know how to deal with steel studs.  So I installed steel backing plates for all the cabinet attachments, and bought a big box of 2-1/2" #8 self-drilling screws to have handy.  This way they can't miss.
One issue with steel-framed walls is poor acoustics.  This is remedied by packing the walls with stabilized cellulose insulation after one side is dry-walled.  This was a job for the professionals.  I just took pictures and helped sweep up the floor.

The same material was sprayed in the attic to a depth of 13 inches (about R40).

I'm not built to hang drywall, so I turned the job over to some guys who had legs growing from their shoulders where their arms should have been.

This picture, taken November 28, 2000, illustrates something else.  Where the houses in the background are was an avocado orchard when I started this project and for quite a while after that.